It was raining when I woke through the night and continued to do so until we left Pemberton late this morning. My gallant husband insisted that he pack up camp alone, that there was no point in both of us getting drenched and so after I had done the few inside battening down chores, I watched him out the window feeling like an idle Lady Muck.
I had telephoned up to the camp office at 9 am asking that we might make a late departure given the hideous weather conditions, hoping for a break in the rain. This we were given almost reluctantly and yet I have seen people often leave after the decreed 10 am, so must assume it is a frequent arrangement. It was a first for us. However, as 10 am approached, it was evident that there would be no window of opportunity before midday, so we might as well “just do it”, as they say.
Hitched up and road ready, we drove through the forest to Northcliffe just thirty kilometres south, delighting yet again in the beauty of our surrounds, which even in the rain, or perhaps because of the rain, were no less lovely than yesterday in the intermittent sunshine. This morning as on the other days we have driven around this region, we were astounded by the number of cottages available for holiday rental on farms about. It seems as if this is an essential tool of their diversity as they struggle to make an economical income from traditional farming methods. However it must be said, that farmers, and most people, expect an economical income to allow for an overseas trip every year, a couple of lattes every week, a spa and massage at least once a year, and for the children to have all the latest electronic gadgetry, so of course one has to diversify.
The forests of south Western Australia are wonderful and even if one was too lazy, too short of time, disabled or too fat, they can be enjoyed from inside one’s motor vehicle even driving along the relatively major routes. But they will not get to smell and feel the forest as we have, nor to see and hear the birdlife, nor to startle the random roo, but they will have still sampled some of Australia’s very best features.
We pulled into the General Store at Northcliffe and I braved the rain to purchase the daily newspaper and a loaf of expensive but very ordinary bread. I remarked to the storekeeper that it was good weather for ducks to which he responded that the lush green of the countryside was dependant on such weather events. I could only agree, but did spoil his day by telling him I had checked the internet this morning and that better weather should arrive by next weekend. I suspect he was a case of a bad weather Eeyore, and if you do not know your A.A.Milne’s Winnie-the-Pooh, don’t even worry about that comment.
We came across Middleton Road running directly east to the South Western Highway, otherwise known as Highway 1, through many kilometres of eucalypt plantation which obviously feed the big mills at Pembleton and Manjimup, and through rising flood waters. Turning south onto the more major highway, we found little change in the width of the road although the surface was an improvement. I remembered the scorn heaped on our modest Highway 1 in Northland, New Zealand by my husband’s sister and her husband when they came across from England for a holiday, and wondered what they would think of this.
It is only about a hundred and thirty kilometres from Pemberton to Walpole, so our late start did not matter much. We stopped on the roadside for lunch before making our way down out of the forested hills to the Walpole Inlet and on into this caravan park, again chosen for price. This week, the second week of the school holidays, the prices are inflated to $24, which by Western Australia’s standards is excellent value, although Bridgetown was even better. However for all that it is holiday time, we were the only caravan in until about half an hour ago. On arrival the extensive park was occupied by a roo and her joey, magpies and a couple of camping parties with only swags and boat trailers to mark their camp spot. We chose the least muddy site and hurriedly set up making the most of a break in the weather, however the break has lasted all afternoon, the sun has shone for more than five minutes at a time and everything is altogether brighter.
We are situated right down on the shore of the inlet, the part that narrows before emptying out into the larger Nornalup Inlet and then on out to the Southern Ocean. Several pelicans are hanging about the small jetty and tomorrow we will explore a little more. We have in the meantime been into the township, population not much more than three hundred, and been recommended a self-drive tour for the morrow as well as being sold tickets to the Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk.
Sadly for my husband, we have no television reception, however today is a rest day for the Tour de France and the cricket match is over; a valiant attempt by both teams boding well for the tests yet to be played. Chris will just have to read or listen to music; I have my computer!
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