5 September 2012 - Takarakka Bush Resort, Gorge Section – Carnarvon National Park, Queensland

Linda, the park ranger who had just returned from holiday, was totally in control of the crowd that gathered in front of the big white screen behind the amenities block. It was advertised as a “slide show” however that is a rather out-dated term for what is now called a “power-point presentation". Apart from a good turnout of travellers such as ourselves, there were a couple of classes of primary children, one from Chinchilla and the other from Mount Isa, who managed to disrupt the proceedings only momentarily from time to time. Had I been sitting just in my shorts and a tee-shirt on the ground in the cool temperatures, I might also have been disruptive. Much of her lecture duplicated that which we had learned from Tom the previous night, however Tom is a scientist and I suggest that Linda may have once upon a time been a teacher.

Last night we learned the social habits of apostle birds, platypus, echidna and the local mob (a rather derogatory term for the people about the area of aboriginal blood, I would have thought). We saw photos taken of the gorge and the rivers from past years when the Creek has become a raging torrent, and photos of much of the fauna and flora. As expected, it was an excellent show filling a good hour after dinner and dishes were done, however by the end, the temperatures were plummeting and although we were wrapped in jeans and jackets, we were pleased to be able to sit over the electric heater to thaw out on our return.

According to Linda, a walk to the Boolimba Bluff was an absolute must do and to see the gorge laid out in all its glory, one should be at the top at 5.45 am. If that could not be managed, at least be at the lookout here in the camp at that time. We would then have the privilege of watching the sun catch the light sandstone bluffs and the park would be revealed to us like a precious gem. (My words, not hers.)

Needless to say, after yesterday’s early rising we were not too keen to duplicate such ungodly rising, however did set the alarm for 6.15 am and were up at the Visitors Centre ready to set out yet again by 7.25am. This morning we were the second vehicle in the car park however did not encounter the earlier walker.

On top of the Bluff

The walk to the top of the Bluff is a 6.4 kilometre return trip, which climbs to a point 200 metres above the Carnarvon Creek. There are many steps (reports vary from 875 to 1,000) and several laddered sections. I had visions of us scaling a sheer bluff on structures propped to the walls, so was very pleasantly surprised to find the ascent was up through a steep gully some distance from the sheer face. Once at the top, we walked about 750 metres along the plateau through low scrubland including pretty yellow flowering bushes and fragile mauve lilies. Arriving at the lookout we were greeted by a friendly Pied Currawong who insisted on accompanying us the full length of the viewing area and then sitting guard over our morning tea area. When I dropped a crumb from my bun, this large black and white crow-like bird was there to tidy up before I had a chance to retrieve the forbidden food.

And speaking of views, there was a chap just back up the road offering helicopter rides from $99. This sounded pretty good, we thought, especially for those who would find the many walks in the area all too challenging. We bumped into a couple yesterday who were full of praise for Shane and his excellent service. He is not allowed to fly under a certain altitude over this gorge and so takes his paying passengers to another otherwise inaccessible which is even better, according to him. For the privilege of a brilliant twenty minute flight, our acquaintances paid just short of $400. I am not sure how that fits in with the advertised price.

Our friendly Currawong

And speaking of rip-offs, if that is to be considered such, I have already expressed our thoughts on the tariff here. Yesterday we also encountered a couple who are currently staying here in this park in a “Taka-tent” sometimes called “safari tents”. They had inquired about the tariffs at the Carnarvon Gorge Wilderness Retreat just up the road and found the same accommodation would cost them $375 a night; here at Takarakka they are paying one third of that. Even so, someone is making a killing!   But perhaps people such as us who are living one long holiday are unjust in such comments; not everyone has to spread their “holiday” money out over 365 days of each year!

But I have digressed.

Our ascent had taken a little over an hour and yet we had expected the whole walk would take three hours or so. We did linger at the top, before heading back down the track. The descent was slow; my knee had decided enough was enough. When we finally reached the bottom of the gully, we started to meet other walkers on the path, all having decided there was no point in following Linda’s recommendations.

By the time we reached the river crossing adjacent to the Visitor’s Centre I was moving like an old crock, however matters improved as we unsuccessfully checked out the grounds for the echidnas apparently in residence behind the building. We decided to do the short 1.5 kilometre Nature Walk along the creek banks, a gentle wander from where we hoped to spot platypus. The walk was very pleasant, the river crossings easy but the platypus, like the echidna, were nowhere to be seen.

At this point Chris insisted there be no more walking despite my assurances that there was nothing obviously wrong with my knee that a couple of painkillers wouldn’t fix. Better still, lunch and a few hours pottering around the camp brought total relief, for a while at least.

After Chris had attended to some boring business matters which he has put off for months but promised to attend to before watching the US tennis open, we went for a wander about the camp, up to the lookout then followed the river bank still looking for platypus, again without success. We sat for a while with another couple gazing fruitlessly into a pool labelled “Platypus” and talked travel and family and all the matters that occupy gypsies’ minds, then returned to camp to spend the rest of the afternoon with our feet up.

I do feel that we have done the National Park justice, given our short stay and my dodgy knee, but would love to return some time in the future, stay a week and do all the walks again.