21 September 2012 - Menindee Lake Caravan Park, Menindee, NSW

A wind storm came up late in the evening; I was about to write “desert storm” (it sounds so much more romantic). I wrenched myself away from my book, dressed and joined Chris outside in the dark and wild gale to disassemble our awning and the furniture beneath. This is not the first time we have had to do this during our travels and no doubt will not be the last. By morning all was once more calm promising another beautiful day.

We left Broken Hill without bidding farewell to Pam and Ralph, because they had left early to call up to the hospital and can only hope we will catch up down south at the Music Festival. The hundred and ten kilometres of good sealed road to Menindee passed through the low hills of the Barrier Range and soon crossed great expanses of grassland, or what is considered as such in this part of the world. Saltbush and other low scrub bushes cover the land, populated with sparse flocks of sheep and roos and greater numbers of emus. There are few trees big enough to shade any but the knob tailed lizards,  who persisted in playing chicken. We swerved successfully missing all but one, however we cannot vouch for the skill of the other drivers on the road. The purple flowers of the borage continued to delight and the time zone change back to Eastern Central Time to amuse.

This camp had been recommended to us on the strength of its glorious sunsets over the western shore of the lake. I had checked both this and another close by out on-line; both advertised their tariffs at $25. The entry to the camp is perhaps a kilometre of wide red dust road through arid countryside, not at all suggesting an oasis in a mass of waterways. Checking in we discovered the tariff had risen by $3; the girl at the desk was unapologetic about the increase. When we explained we had made a particular effort to check the up-to-date price on line, she shrugged and told us she would tell the website person. Later we found the price yet again advertised on a leaflet at the local Information Centre at the lower price. You may think we should be accustomed to this false advertising; it is unlikely we will ever find it acceptable.

The camp is in a lovely position above the lake shore but the water at the tap is non-potable. The only potable water is from a rain water tank by the amenities so we are carting water and have receptacles of water for this and others for that. We had counted on having water on tap here for all round use as the many days ahead of Menindee are most likely to be in the bush without water or power, hence we have to ration our consumption. It would be very convenient to have separate water tanks to cater for such situations however we normally manage quite well without.

We had some difficulty unhitching because the tow ball would not release from the coupling. This has occurred before however usually a fiddle with the brakes and clutch solves the problem. After about half an hour of messing about and jumping up and down on the rear of the vehicle, it came free. Lunch time had passed; such frustrations are not easy on empty stomachs. Chris resolved to change the fitting as soon as we reach civilisation again.

After lunch we drove into Menindee, just a couple of kilometres down the road duly advised at the entrance of the population of 980 and the altitude of just 70 metres ASL. Driving around the few streets we did wonder where they all lived. Unlike the houses in Broken Hill that are mainly of corrugated iron, these here are of fibro plank apart from the few very old buildings that have been renovated over the years.

The second oldest pub in New South Wales, the Maiden, still survives as does the legacy of Burke and Wills’ great expedition in 1860. It was here, the last settlement before the back of beyond, they set up their camp, and here the surviving members of their party returned to await the leaders. One of their cameleers, who did survive the earlier part of the expedition, finished his years here and lies buried beside the road, his name on an undated gravestone.

We had booked in for two nights believing that there was enough to keep us occupied here for that time. What with the historical significance of this Darling River township and the various drives through the Kinchega National Park, we were confident we would be kept more than busy. However the delightful chap at the Information Centre soon put us straight regarding the roads about the place, most now closed because of the good wet weather over the past few years. I am happy for the birds and beasts, for the farmers and those whose business relies on these matters, but alas, not for us.

The nine Menindee Lakes are part of an amazing water storage system initially created by nature, later manipulated by man. Full, the system holds over three and a half times the water capacity of the Sydney Harbour (that same old measuring stick).

The scheme was dreamed up in part way back in 1894, however it was not until 1949 it was given the go-ahead. It includes a weir in the river, designed to raise the water level by fourteen metres and floods four smaller lakes which have become Lake Wetherell. Water from this now large lake can be released back into the Darling River or diverted into Lake Pamamaroo. From this lake, the water can be released again back into the river or through to Lake Menindee beside which we are camped. And from this lake, the water can be diverted on through the Tandou Creek and thus into the Great Anabranch. It all sounds quite confusing but is in fact quite brilliantly simple.

According to our informative mate in Menindee, the whole scheme was paid for by the South Australia government because they wanted surety of flow in the Murray into which the Darling flows. This is a fact that they seem to be conveniently forgetting as three states debate the future of flow regulation for the entire Murray – Darling River system. However this is his opinion and the plaques by the weir suggested that it was the New South Wales government who footed the bill.

Menindee Lake sunset

After calling into the Friendly superette and reserving a copy of the weekend paper for tomorrow, we drove out to the Main Weir to admire the full lakes and the amazing numbers of water birds enjoying the conditions. We also noted the very many free camps alongside the lakes and the many folk who had taken advantage of the facility. Apart from the fact that the road to reach these brilliant spots is all dirt, we regretted we had checked into the caravan park. The tranquillity of the lakeside camps looked so enticing, although I imagine the mosquitos also find it so.

On our return to camp, we noted the large vineyard not too far from camp, which looked so out of place in this arid scene. Obviously water from this scheme irrigates the lush vines.

Over dinner we watched the sun set over the lake, a pretty sight for sure. Perhaps tomorrow there will be a few clouds to make it even better.