Anticipation of our day at the South Coast Caravan,
Camping and Holiday Expo was enough to rouse us early yesterday morning and
have us at Batemans Bay by the opening time of 9 am. But even then, we had to
find a space in the far end of the parking area and stand in the long queue to
buy our tickets. There were evidently just as many keen show-goers as us.
It had rained a little on our drive north and rain
still lay about in shallow puddles at Mackay Park, the location of the expo,
however it held off for the rest of the day. In fact we could not have asked
for better weather to enjoy such a day; neither too hot nor too cold. We
enjoyed our six hours at the show, even more than the Melbourne expo. Here in
Batemans Bay, there was not the press of crowds and frenzy of sales. Despite that,
it would seem that sales were brisk of caravans and accessories alike.
We pondered the purchase of generators, portable
solar panels, tarpaulin clips, portable camp fires, satellite dishes and
scooters, and in the end simply settled for a couple of hose bags. We have
brochures for most of the products we did not buy and may, or may not, give
them further thought while the iron is still hot, so to speak.
At the end of the afternoon, I was glad to return to
camp and sit with my feet up, served with coffee by my husband who has more
stamina than I when it comes to traipsing around exhibitions and standing for
long periods of time in conversation with the ever friendly and pushy
salespeople.
We spent today in a very different way, more in line
with our normal activities. It was about 9.30 am when we headed away from camp,
inland from Moruya up the Moruya River and
then the Duea River, along a
narrow gravel road unsuitable for caravans, long or large vehicles. While the
hills all about are bush clad and part of the Deua National Park, there are
numerous small holdings along the river; mostly rather rundown residences probably
inhabited by alternative types. You wonder why people would live in a narrow
valley, so close to the river and surrounded by so much forest. With floods and
fires so common here in Australia, I would have to suggest that these people
are either thick or have nerves of steel.
There are three camping areas along the river, but
only two easily accessible from the road. We stopped at the first and walked
down to the river where a family of four were swimming. More correctly, two of
the children were swimming and mother and one child were sensibly sitting on
rocks in the middle of the river, supervising. The water was so clear, flowing
over a sandy bottom. We shed our sandals and waded in, paddling around like a
couple of kids. It was so lovely, although not warm enough to encourage us to
fetch our togs from the landcruiser. After the family left, we sat on the rocks
in the sunshine, listening to the birds and watching masses of tiny fish swim
in the clear water, while we let our feet dry. It was so peaceful; I could have
stayed like that all day except I could feel my uncovered head burning. Then
Chris noted a visitor swimming toward us from the other side; dark and slim, a
little less than two metres long. I was not aware that land snakes could swim
so well. We quickly put our shoes on and readied ourselves for a quick retreat,
however after he had beached himself on the rocks, he was more interested in
resting in the sunshine than coming for us. We decided it was time to leave.
We stopped at the next camp and wandered down to the
river, finding this posse very attractive as well. They would be marvellous
camp spots for tent based campers.
Soon the road climbed up over a ridge and we came
down once more to the river, but this time, the Araluen Creek, and surprisingly
ahead of us lay a wide farming valley. I say surprisingly because valleys normally
open out as rivers flow down, rather than toward the head. Perhaps I missed
something in the geography of the land. According to research sources, the
natural landscape of the valley was completely destroyed by destructive gold
mining in the latter part of the 19th century, or at least what was
left after a flash flood swept through the town in 1860, killing twenty four
people.
Today there are about two hundred people living
here; I would suggest that includes the surrounding farms as well as the peach
orchardists. The teenage son in the river-swimming family had just been through
to Araluen for an interview to work on one of these orchards, so we were not
entirely surprised when we saw the neatly arranged rows of peach trees for
ourselves. The pub was open but we stopped at the town’s public recreational
area, a rather overgrown cricket oval, a shabby pavilion, shabbier picnic
tables and a shiny new playground set up. We were happy to eat our lunch in
this lovely rural setting however did discover as we regained our route, that
there was a specially set aside picnic area and park a couple of kilometres up
the road. There you go.
The gravel turned to bitumen as the road immediately
climbed high onto the Great Divide, climbing 480 metres in short distance
before we found ourselves on a plateau of beautiful farmland. Braidwood lies
twenty three kilometres north of Araluen and is a significant service town for
the surrounding countryside, centrally located ninety kilometres from Canberra
and sixty two from Batemans Bay, on the Kings Highway.
We normally do a little research before we arrive at
a place so we have a rough idea of what to expect, but today Braidwood was an
absolute surprise. We had intended to return to Moruya from Araluen by the same
route; our decision to make a loop tour was totally unplanned.
We walked about Braidwood, fascinated by its old
world charm and marvelled at the amount of traffic that was passing through
travelling from the coast on to Canberra, many stopping and partaking of refreshments.
We learned that Braidwood is an old gold rush area and has since been declared
a historic town by the National Trust. The largest gold discovery occurred in
1869, however all through the late 19th century the prosperous town
was a drawcard for bushrangers, making it the most infamous and dangerous town in the region. The 19th
century buildings have been restored and are still in use for both commercial
and residential purposes.
Back on the road, we headed toward the coast, soon
descending down over the edge of the escarpment on the Kings Highway. It is
quite strange how the existence of safety ramps for runaway downhill bound
vehicles play with your mind and make the road seem steeper and more dangerous
than it really is. We have seen these before; they are a specialty of the
Australian eastern escarpment roads. Imagine having to use one!
When we reached the Princes Highway, we turned south,
crossed the very ugly opening bridge over the Clyde River, and headed for home,
calling in at the Scottish Restaurant for our own refreshments; a snow freeze
cone each. Why did we do that? Sunday, opposite the Caravan & Camping Expo! Masses of noisy kids, the clatter of a
commercial restaurant and the stupid system MacDonalds has had now for some
time, with a queue for ordering and paying, and another for actual service. It
is so annoying! By the time the order was filled, I was suffering
calorie-guilt; I have been doing so well reducing my weight back to what it was
before we went to New Zealand last. I suspect that all the wonderful
hospitality on our next trip will destroy all my self-discipline exercised over
the past four months. Still, I could have thrown it out, or offered it to
a hungry looking child, but I did not. I ate it all up and it was delicious, as
per usual.
As penance, I was pleased to take a walk around a
small corner of the Eurobodalla Regional Botanic Gardens, just a few kilometres
south of Batemans Bay. I should note that Chris does not suffer the same
pathetic desire for self-flagellation. This is a female thing, and women are
very good at this.
The Botanic Gardens are lovely, or at least that
small part we saw of them. They cover an area of forty two hectares immediately
below Deep Creek Dam in Mogo State Forest. Development was commenced in 1988
however they were significantly damaged by bush fires in January 1994. With
great determination from volunteers, local businesses and community groups,
development was continued and the gardens were officially opened in 2001. We
may well return there when we move our camp base to Batemans Bay. It’s a good
place to undertake daily exercise.
Ten kilometres further south, we stopped at Mogo,
having passed twice through this yesterday. Mogo, with its population of less
than three hundred people, also made its mark during the gold rush. In fact
gold mining continued about the area from initial discovery in 1851 right
through to 1984, when the Australian dollar was floated. In its heyday, there
were 15,000 people living here. Today it is a quaint village of the same ilk as
Cobargo, further down the highway, but a little more upmarket. It was well
after 3 pm by the time we stopped and did our uptown walk, and the place was
still surprisingly busy with tourists. Mogo is also home to a private zoo which
specialises in breeding programmes for endangered species, as well as The Original Gold Rush Colony, an award
winning tourism attraction which we did not bother with. As I have mentioned
before, after Victoria, we are rather “golded” out.
Soon we were home again, and rather disappointed to
find the family adjacent to us had not headed back to where they come from.
Obviously they are here for more of a break than just the weekend. It seems
that with the Melbourne Cup race taking place on Tuesday, many Australians make
this an unofficial very-long-weekend. Perhaps these folk are doing that? They,
like many here at this park, and no doubt at many we have visited, own their
caravan and annex which are permanently onsite. They pay about $3,500 per annum
for this privilege and can stay in their own “bach” for 120 days without
further charge. Any additional days are charged as we are. For this family of
Mum, Dad and their three very little girls, it evidently makes good economic
sense, offering a relatively cheap holiday. They do seem to be quite nice
people, even though we have yet to engage in conversation, however the little
ones are like all small children after a big day at the beach; tired, scratchy
and loud. We do not need this so closely next door!
Having said all that, Chris has just been over to
the office and paid for another day.
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