14 July 2012 - Edgewater Holiday Park, Port Macquarie, NSW

Our last full day in this holiday resort was supposed to have been sunny and warm, or at least that is what the weather forecasts had suggested. Of course it was not but in all fairness, it could have been worse. The last of the rain fell over breakfast and only threatened with more as the day progressed.

We drove around the area that might be described as “The Keys” however I have not heard it described as such. The three islands in the river accessed by road from this southern side are densely populated with beautiful homes, most with water access and mooring for boats.

Returning to the shore, we found ourselves at the foreshore markets with the other weekend punters. Stalls sold fresh fruit and vegetables, free range eggs, baby booties, reiki services, second hand books, jewellery and the inevitable expresso in paper cups. We came away with a couple of avocados which will need to linger in the bottom cupboard for a few days before testing, and mud on our shoes. The rain over the past few days still lies about and does not look as if it’s in a hurry to leave.

The colourful graffited seawall

We parked down by the town green on the riverside and wandered along the waterfront toward the southern breakwater. Port Macquarie really is quite charming even with the dark clouds still poised above ready for further action and patchy puddles everywhere. We were disappointed to discover a project that must have been greatly applauded and planned; rocks along the breakwater colourfully decorated with family emblems and names. The result is an eyesore.

 We wandered about the streets in the town, noting the buskers, one of whom we had heard in the streets of Cairns about this time last year. We remembered him because he is a chap with disabilities who sings through a megaphone with great effect. We checked all the Thai restaurants hoping to find one open for lunch, but none were planning to open before 5.30 pm, so we returned instead to the caravan park and made toasted sandwiches.

Again we set out to make the most of our last day, first stopping at a caravan sales yard along the street. Chris spent some time wandering about checking caravans out while I started to read the newspaper and soon snoozed off. A speed nap is supposed to be an excellent tonic and so it was.

We parked by the Kooloonbung Nature Park and set off walking on the five kilometres of boardwalk that cross the fifty two hectares of bush and swamp about the Kooloonbung Creek. We walked through the casuarinas or swamp oak and melaleucas or mud paperbarks. Above our heads, hundreds of flying foxes hung upside down, peacefully resting before their evening outing, but very smelly. The boardwalk would have been slippery just because of winter conditions, but it was ten times worse because of the bat dung. We made our way carefully and slowly along, taking care not to end up either on our bottoms on the timber walkway or in the sludgy swamp below.

Recovering koala

I was sure that the koala hospital was situated in one corner of the park, however none of the signs confirmed this. We finally emerged through a narrow exit onto a suburban street and approached an old chap washing his car, asking where the hospital was. “Along way from here”, he told us. His wife brought us a map, identical to the one I had left in the land cruiser and showed us that we were indeed some distance from our destination. They suggested we return to the cruiser by the route we had come then drive to the koala hospital. Chris was not keen to do so and truth be told, nor was I. He took control of the map and we set off on foot finding our way through a maze of streets. Port Macquarie’s residential areas are spread over hill and down dale and this we found out for ourselves. After about three kilometres, we reached our destination, Australia’s only official koala hospital, just on time to join the free tour. 

Mike (or Mick as he preferred) explained the work of the hospital, the medical history of the current patients and facts all about these fabulous creatures. A male who had once upon a time been an inmate came trotting by on his way to one of his favourite trees, not at all prompted by the guide or anyone else. It was the first time I had seen a koala on the move, and they really can move when they want to.

All mod-cons for the patients

The hospital admits between 200 and 300 each year, either diseased from cancer, conjunctivitis or chlamydia, or hurt from road accidents, dog, cat or snake attack or bush fire. Once they are well enough for release, they are returned from the place they came, but micro chipped and tagged for future reference and study. The centre works in conjunction with the University of Sydney and is operated entirely by volunteers, yet again. For me, it was well worth having become lost and the long walk, still another to retrieve the land cruiser. Needless to say that I, the chief navigator, have been demoted and will have to work hard to regain my stripes.

Our last day has, despite the lack of warm sun, passed successfully and we will leave Port Macquarie tomorrow morning, having ticked off all our to-do list even if it has taken us a few extra days to do so.