Back in the city this morning, we caught the tram to St Kilda and alighted at the top of Fitzroy Street, rediscovering the hotel that Chris and his first wife had acted as concierges in their early months in Melbourne over thirty five years ago. It is little changed externally which was a surprise to Chris, but should not have been. St Kilda is as attractive as it was then, and I could only agree as we walked about exploring the waterfront, the Pier and the exterior of Luna Park. This latter attraction was closed and we peered through the gate at the garish fun railway, a duplicate of that in Sydney. In fact Melbourne’s Luna Park was the first in Australia, established in 1912, designed and set up by the crowd that set up that on Coney Island in New York in the first years of that same century. Sydney’s Park was not set up until the mid 1930’s. Personally I found this trivia far more interesting than taking any ride, had such been on offer.
The Pier has a large kiosk at the end, a building that has seen many changes over the years, more recently victim of arson in 2003. It was originally built in 1904, and the rebuild was completed in 2006. Beyond the kiosk, the breakwater stretches for some distance, protecting the marina area around the Royal Melbourne Yacht Club. Most of this seawall is fenced off to further protect the Little Penguins and Native Water Rats that have chosen to call this home.
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| St Kilda's Pier |
Also along the sea shore, is a fine building housing the St Kilda Seabaths, offering boutique services to those who choose to go there rather than take a marathon walk in the sunshine and the grand (but in need of a paint) Palais Theatre. Flags and temporary stages mark the spot on the sandy beach where beach volley ball is held.
We found a shady bench back along the West Beach in the Catani Gardens to eat our lunch, and then headed off once more on foot up Beaconsfield Parade where there are many beautiful buildings, many undergoing renovation and an equal number for sale. I suspect the owners overstretched themselves; there is nothing new under the sun.
We reached the extent of the South Melbourne tramway in Victoria Avenue where the tram was parked, waiting for its timetabled departure and I was pleased to fall into the seat to wait as well. It wasn’t long before we were on our way up through Albert Park, joining lovely tree lined St Kilda Road and alighting at the Art Gallery opposite the Botanic Gardens.
Today the NGV International (National Gallery Victoria) was open for business and very busy. It was just before 2 pm and we were in time for a free guided tour. Naturally we took advantage of this and enjoyed an hour rushing about the extensive gallery with Fiona, who gave us a very general overview of the amazing collection of art held here. It seems that all Australian art is held in the new gallery in Federation Square, and the European art is here in St Kilda Road in this rather impressive building opened in 1968. The Art Gallery was established in 1861 but has been housed in various buildings across the centuries. With a collection numbering over 65,000 works of art, it is the country’s oldest and largest public gallery. Much of the collection has been largely financed by one benefactor, Alfred Felton, a successful business man, single and childless, who died back in 1904, whose will established a philanthropic trust, the income of which is distributed half to charities benefitting women and children and the other half to acquire and donate artworks to the Gallery. With such an advantage, it is no surprise that this gallery seems to surpass anything else we have visited to date.
At the end of the tour, we agreed that a day or more would be required to explore the gallery properly and so decided to call it a day, brave the commuters and head home. Today I have caught the sun yet again, so am quite glad that the forecast for tomorrow suggests showers in the afternoon.
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