2 November 2011 - G’Day Mate Tourist Park, Alice Springs, Northern Territory

We spent another fabulous day exploring this wonderful central Australia, away before 8 am and heading west toward Hermannsburg, but this time turning north west to investigate the chasms, gaps, canyons, rivers and other geological wonders that still awaited us.   

Roadside dingo

Mt Sonder beyond the undulating road

The road undulated through green open woodlands, lying between the rugged MacDonnell ranges, the strata ridges like pictures of the ruined parts of the Great Wall of China. Ahead lay Mount Sonder in a landscape of pastels just as Albert Namatjira painted. And then suddenly we came upon a dingo, the first we had seen. He crossed the road in front of us, turned to look at us, and then wandered off. His coat was dull and we wondered if he were a has-been leader of a pack, now wandering aimlessly like the locals in Alice.

Ormiston Gorge

The Glen Helen Gorge

One hundred and twenty eight kilometres west of Alice Springs, we turned north to the Ormiston Gorge, just seven kilometres off the main road. We walked down to the waterhole at the foot of towering red walls of rock and decided that we did not feel drawn to swim in the depths of the pool, apparently as much as fourteen metres deep. Instead we walked the one and a half hour Ghost Gum walk, steeply up to the lookout and then along the sides of the steep gorge, down to the floor of the river and back around the waterhole and back to the car. We met a few others delighting in the splendour of the spectacular scenery and spent time chatting with one couple who are travelling full time as we are but in a bus-motorhome towing a Suzuki Gemini and boat on a trailer. Back at their vehicle, they showed us photos of the rig and we duly admired them. We parted company sure we would meet up again at another waterhole or gorge further along the road, however never did.

Endless lovely landscapes

These people had called in to the Glen Helen Gorge before coming in to the Ormiston Gorge and taken a helicopter ride. They encouraged us to travel the extra few kilometres up the road to see the lodge and surroundings for ourselves. This was a place we had considered briefly taking the caravan up to and travelling out from. We decided after investigating for ourselves that we had indeed made the right choice; to stay in Alice Springs using that as our base.

The Glen Helen Station was established late in the 19^th century on the banks of the Fink River, and much more recently turned into a tourist destination, offering motel, bunkhouses, camping, a restaurant and bar, fuel at forty cents more than in town, tours and hospitality. The gorge walls rise steeply across the river from the buildings, and the pastoral land, such as it is, lies to the north. We made our way across the river, just a series of waterholes, and reached the gap where the river becomes an expansive lake. There we sat on rocks, ate our lunch and watched the birds about us.

As we made our way back to the cruiser, we met up with the missionary family we had met on our exploration of the East MacDonnell’s. Again they were heading in the same direction as us, but first calling in to the Ormiston Gorge for lunch.

The Ochre Pits

Our next destination was the Ochre Pits, twenty one kilometres back toward Alice Springs. This is an area where the aboriginal people have used to “mine” the mineral that plays an important part in their culture; paintings and body decoration, the latter where they mix it with goanna fat or water. The stripes of colour on the walls of the river were quite fascinating and tempting, but signs everywhere warned of touching or theft, threatening a $5,000 fine.

Crags above Serpentine Gorge

The Serpentine Gorge was next, up a few kilometres of gravel road, under water in places and generally uninviting for tourists. Here the aboriginals believe to be the dwelling place of the Water Serpent and thus one to be avoided. This would appear to be a well thought out ruse to conserve an excellent source of water. When desperate they would approach the place with songs and ceremony, but with great fear. Even today the area is avoided by the locals.

We walked to the water hole lying between steep cliffs of red rock, and then climbed up to a lookout high above, from where we could enjoy views back out toward the ranges, but more especially back up into the spectacular gorge behind the gap that exists like a secret world. It was absolutely stunning.

As we headed back to the cruiser, rain drops started to fall and the day was closing in even though it was not yet 4 o’clock. Back on the road, we headed further east but turned again north to the Ellery Creek Big Hole, a popular swimming place for the residents of Alice Springs. Our togs were in the cruiser and I had considered the possibility of us swimming here when I had planned our day, however the rain was now falling seriously and the water felt very cold on my fingers as I knelt down to test it.

There was one more attraction we had yet to visit, but decided to give a miss. The Standley Chasm is one of the must dos here in the Red Centre, but again the timing and the weather did not fit with the ideal conditions. I can bear to leave this area without having seen this wonder because we have seen so many other fabulous places which in their own way are equally wonderful.

On the run back to Alice Springs, we came upon our first live big Red Kangaroo (as opposed to the Eastern Greys), just standing in the middle of the road, before leaping gracefully away once he realised we were approaching at speed. We have seen them dead on the side of the road and in zoo situations, but here he was; wild, free and wonderful.