19 August 2011 - Seisia Caravan Park, NPA, Queensland

This afternoon I am writing this in an absurd position, tucked just inside the verandah of our tent, the wind gusting all around so that leaves and rubbish are piling up around my feet. The glistening sea is just to my right, but obscured by the piece of tent I have draped over the table in an effort to enjoy some shade. The sun is hot and fierce, and masses of big green ants are crawling about biting various bits of my person when they feel like it.

Chris is sitting some distance away in a shelter, sensibly in full shade, reading. His mosquito bites are still bothering him when he is out in the sunshine, and that combined with the frustrations of setting up camp here in the wind has made him a better candidate for isolation in the shelter of the camp kitchen. Fortunately the successful testing of the repaired gas hose, now fitted with yet another o’ring after coming to grief last night, has cheered him up somewhat and I am sure he will come over some time soon and suggest a walk about the camp and along the beach.

Our sandy camp at Seisia

The camp here at Seisia is right on the beach, with many of the Torres Islands in view just out in front. Tomorrow we will catch the ferry across to Thursday Island and spend about four hours walking about and enjoying our taste of T.I. as it is locally referred to. The proximity to the wharf here for that purpose is the sole reason we have set up camp here for a couple of nights rather than head elsewhere better recommended.

The reception here at the Seisia Camping Ground could be greatly improved. Helen, the receptionist could take some tips from the lovely black girl at the Jardine River ferry or alternatively delegate the job to someone with a better disposition.

Crossing the Jardine River

Another moonlit night passed by the Jardine River, and this morning we were woken by the dawn chorus of the birds, more numerous because of the scarcity of population there. After breakfast, we broke camp and drove on to the vehicle ferry, the ferryman obligingly taking us across the moment we arrived, and then drove on the forty two kilometres to Bamaga. This Islander community is the largest town on the northern Cape and has a garage, a petrol station, a supermarket, a baker, a tavern and sports grounds. We were in search of a replacement hose for the cooker, but unable to source one there. One chap suggested the Bait & Tackle shop at New Mapoon, an aboriginal settlement on the way to Seisia, and there we were able to buy a better sized o’ring and another single burner cooker just in case we could not get the old one to work safely.

It should be noted here, as a point of interest, that New Mapoon was established in the late 1950s after bauxite was discovered at Weipa, when many of the people from Weipa and Mapoon were moved here. They are victims of relocated populations, but then I guess that happens to people all around the world for one reason or another.

We were undecided as to where we should stay, having had the camp at Punsand Bay, north east of here, highly recommended, but when we realised that we would have to be boarding the ferry to T.I at 7.45 in the morning, after having driven across from Punsand Bay on goodness knows what sort of roads, we elected to book in here.

Before booking in, we walked along the jetty, and watched fisher people. This is where the cargo vessels come delivering goods for the area and where one can have one’s vehicle shipped back to Cairns if the thought of driving back is all too much, or alternatively if one has pushed it so hard, it is in no state to do the return road trip; all at considerable cost of course. The chap in the Bait & Tackle shop told us that he has his truck driven down to Cairns once every two or so months, flies down to buy up stock, then drives it slowly back himself, with the stage one driver being flown back in his place. I did ask why he did that rather than have his stock shipped up; he responded that by doing it his way he saved about $6,000 a pop. We would do the same if in his shoes!

At Weipa we learned that when a woman is expecting a baby, she must fly to Cairns six weeks in advance of delivery and stay until after the event. Tough luck if the baby decides to come early! The flying is of course because no baby, however premature could safely remain in utero for the duration of the road trip south. People are also preferred to die in Cairns too; however a new cemetery has recently been built for those who inconveniently die before shipping themselves out. I should imagine the same rules would stand for those up here further north.

I should add on the subject of learning, that I discovered this morning the driver of the rolled car was still okay, and had been driving in a dangerous way to impress his mates, that is, was exhibiting hoonish behaviour on this already very dangerous road. “Good job!” I said to the bearer of the tidings.

When we reached Bamaga this morning, we popped in to the “supermarket” and were delighted to find fresh fruit and vegetables priced at even less that one would pay in the supermarkets at Cairns. And bananas? When we were at Lakeland where we left the caravan, we noticed the folks in the next campervan eating a banana each, and at once assumed they must be rich! At Bamaga, a young island woman came out with a wee tot eating a banana. Neither she nor the child looked very affluent, and so I was quite puzzled, until I discovered bananas, albeit rather over ripe, at $2 per kilo in store! Needless to say we purchased a few, and this afternoon, ate our first bananas for at least six months! We also purchased some apples and tomatoes so once more have fresh produce to worry about keeping so.

This afternoon, I hooked in to the internet to pick up emails, all fifteen of them, some requiring immediate attention and some will have to wait. Among the good news was word that Danielle and Aaron, of Saunders Beach visited all those weeks ago had been safely delivered of a ten pound plus baby girl. What wonderful news and of course greatly exciting for Liz and Graeme as first time grandparents.