I was disturbed by the flying foxes during the night, but once I had
established in my semi-conscious state that it was indeed those cute nocturnal
critters, I soon drifted off again. When we did finally wake, the sun was well
up and half our fellow campers already gone.
We hit the road at about nine thirty and headed on westward across the
Capricorn Highway, following the railroad all the time and frequently in the
company of kilometre long coal hauling trains. I counted the carriages; there
were usually as many as one hundred. The road trains transporting cattle east
were less than yesterday, but still noticeable.
We stopped at Blackwater, called such for the tea tree tannin in the
creek water rather than the coal that now gives life to the community. We drove
into the town to buy supplies and found the streets wide and well set out. The
town has been purpose built for the coal miners just as many forestry towns are
in New Zealand. The council have tried hard to give the place character, which
is of course good for the residents’ souls, all 8,000 of them. Alas that is a
hard call in such a place.
Back on the side of the highway is the Blackwater International Coal Centre and the Japanese Garden. The
garden is still too new; the plants have yet to develop their own form. The
Coal Centre is well worth a visit, an excellent source of geological,
historical and environmental education on coal. Some of the interactive
exhibits are currently out of action so the entrance fee had been reduced to a
gold coin donation. Even at the normal entry fee, this should not be missed.
And for those who find anything educational a total bore, there is a Subway
restaurant and good clean amenities.
Coal was first noted by the explorer Ludwig Leichhardt during an 1845
expedition, but large scale exploration in the Bowen Basin, which covers an
area of 75,000 square kilometres, did not commence until the 1960s. Today the Blackwater mine is one of
Australia’s largest open cut coal mines producing 13 million tonnes per annum.
We lunched outside the Centre then continued on to Emerald, firstly
calling into the Information Centre before heading back to this camp, already
appearing quite full by the time we pulled in. An hour ago there were thirty
one camping parties in; I am sure there are many more by now. We are tucked
under the bridge over the Nogoa River, next to the rail bridge over the same,
at one of the entrances to the Botanic Gardens. Once set up, we wandered
through the gardens which seemed to be a green strip along a flood prone river.
Since our walk, we have learned that the park is larger than that seen and
perhaps those other parts are more attractive.
We wandered up into the town, through the main street and past the very
lovely restored railway station, purchased fish for dinner at the supermarket
and booked a site at the Anakie Caravan Park. No sooner had we done that, that
our friend Pauline of the Sunshine Coast, rang and invited us to join them up
at Boodoora Dam, a mere hundred kilometres or so away. We have since cancelled
our booking at Anakie with a little white lie, but will head there after we
have spent some time with our friends. So looking forward to catching up with
them again! It is well over a year since we actually saw them.
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