We were greeted by a bleak day on rising, breakfasted, followed our normal routine of chores and still no ranger had called to collect the very modest camp fee, nor did we pass anyone resembling a ranger as we drove back to Lake Bolac. We found this to be an impressive rural settlement particularly considering its population is not much more than five hundred. The surrounding district is a rich grain and sheep growing area, which would account for the sports facilities and the busy agricultural service industry. It really did deserve more scrutiny than we offered as we drove in and out, all in five minutes.
Here we joined a B road, and so expected a better surface, but alas, not so. We continued bumping along over the golden plains, passing through the tiny villages of Woomdoo, Ellerslie and Purnim, and the surprising small town of Mortlake, which was evidently settled by Scots given the references to Celtic events, and yet googling this, there is no such evidence of such supposition. It does have a population twice that of Lake Bolac, hence the bolder lettering on the map, and would have been a pleasant place to wander up and down, however the cold drizzle deterred such activity.
We entered Warrnambool from the north, heading initially for the showgrounds which, according to our CMCA bible, asked only $20 per night per van, a very fair tariff in a city of such a size. Alas, it appears that some pathetic little wombles in the council office have decreed that the showgrounds may not operate as a camping ground any more, except for special events when participants may stay on site. I would suggest that those pathetic little wombles were not brave enough to stand up to the proprietors of the camping grounds in the city, all of whom are currently asking between $33 and $65 per night for a powered site. We consulted the Camps 5 bible once more and decided it would be more economical to drive west to Koroit and stay at the camp there which quoted $22 per night when we phoned. Sometimes we have been guilty of biting off our nose to spite our face, however doing the maths and considering the fact that every trip into Warrnambool and back would add thirty four kilometres to the odometer, we stand by our decision.
As it turns out, this lovely little village of about fifteen hundred people is nestled on the slopes of Tower Hill, a dormant volcano. There is a delightful park beside this little camping ground, just full of birds this evening, screeching and calling, oblivious to all else. We look forward to exploring the place on foot, and patronising the small supermarket, news agency and anything else that takes our fancy. A dairy factory dominates the manmade skyline within the town boundary, defiantly announcing that it is 100% Australian owned (in contrast to the Fonterra factory that stands proudly on the western edge of Warrnambool)
Tower Hill was noted by the French explorer Nicholas Baudin in 1802, and the first European settlers arrived in the Koroit area in 1837, followed by a large number of Irish immigrants in the 1840s and 1850s. The township was surveyed in 1857 and the post office opened in 1858. These dates of early settlement account for the wonderful very old buildings we noted as we drove through this afternoon.
After setting up camp and having lunch, we drove back into Warrnambool to suss out a garage to do the 150,000 kilometer service. We thought it would be a good idea to check out the Toyota service agent first, to obtain a quote with which to measure any other quotes we may get. Theirs was so good compared to other service costs we have paid during this last year, especially given that there are quite a few special items to be dealt with, that we booked it in then and there. We will now remain in the area until after Wednesday, and so should have plenty of opportunity to explore Warrnombool well.
Warrnambool is the largest city in the Great Ocean Road region and with a population of 33,000 is the fastest growing city in Victoria. It was Victoria’s most active port in the 1880s and the coastline hereabout is littered with shipwrecks and attractions which we will learn of during the days ahead.
In the meantime, we have made contact with Hilda, whom I met when I travelled to Europe with my mother and sisters nearly four years ago and we will call upon her tomorrow morning. I do so look forward to seeing her again.
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