It seems that this the most sensible way to conduct one’s life here in the centre of this dry continent, or should I say, in the dry centre of this continent? Live busily in the early part of the day then sit in the shade doing sedentary tasks through the heat of the afternoon.
As I start this, it is a little after 2 pm, clouds have gathered as they seem to every afternoon, and the wind is gusting quite strongly, testing the strength of the awning ropes and straps. Chris is still outside, in the shade, no doubt wrestling with the pages of his book with each gust. For myself, I choose to sit inside near the fan and will make use of a cold shower sooner rather than later.
This morning we were again at the mercy of the alarm, rising early, breakfasted and on the road by 5.30 am, this time parking at a less popular sunrise viewing park closer to the edge of the park entrance, before proceeding to a point from where to walk the perimeter of the Rock.
The path around Uluru is 10.6 kilometres long, on even and very flat terrain. We started out on the southern side, believing that we would be best shielded from the blazing sum as the morning wore on. This decision was made on the basis of the route around the rock in the early seventies. Alas, like the roads that have changed (and we did confirm that today when we pulled out the 1968 geographical atlas we have), the path takes walkers some distance from the base of the rock, in part to protect the vegetation and in part to respect the sacred places of the local Anungu people, sacrificing shade in the process.
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| Around the Rock |
The first half hour was peaceful and lovely; we passed few other walkers and only one runner, and the birdlife was delightful. However soon after that we encountered hundreds doing as we were, except all walking in the opposite direction. It became quite tedious greeting everyone, even with a perfunctory, “good morning”.
Surprisingly the rock is not quite as singularly solid and plain as one might think. Erosion has caused large portions of the sedimentary rock to flake off forming caves and holes, and rainwater has formed steep valleys, fluted ridges and great walls which are the backdrop to high waterfalls when the rains come in force. Two waterholes, one on the north side, the other on the south, are indeed surprises, and the diverse plant life show green against the red earth, adding to the dramatic landscape. Apart from the many birds, the only other wildlife we saw were two rabbits, foreign uninvited pests. The base walk is important in understanding that Uluru is not just a great lump of rock offering colourful photographic appeal at sunrise and sunset.
On the north west ridge of the rock, there still exists a ropeway to aid the rebel tourist who chooses to ignore the polite request of the Anungu people and the safety warnings of the National Park rangers. According to an ex-ranger now employed in the artworks retail outlet at the Cultural Centre, only 30% of tourists undertake the climb as opposed to 60% say ten years ago. What rot, I say. Certainly Chris and his mate climbed it forty years ago, and there were foolhardy souls descending today when we passed beneath the steep path, however I cannot begin to imagine most of those people we met yesterday out at Kata Tjuta even considering such a jaunt. It is true however that over thirty five people have fallen to their deaths from the rock, many chasing a hat blown off, or a camera dropped, or perhaps had inappropriate footwear on (as the guy in jandals / thongs we saw today) .
As we approached Yulara two days ago, Chris had posed the question or raised the idea for consideration. I said that I had not even considered such an activity, but promised to keep an open mind as regards this bizarre idea. Closer to the rock and considering the height and the fact that there is no shelter and little security, I dismissed the possibility completely but said I would wait for him at the bottom should he wish to relive the excitement of that first climb. Companionably, he said he would give it a miss and instead hold on to old memories.
Advice in the guide books given, after two pages of reasons why one should not make the climb, say that the track is closed at 11 am on hot days; today it was closed before 9 am. Those we saw silhouetted on the ridge were returning, to be the last for the day.
It took us three and a quarter hours to complete the circuit, and I have to say I was pooped. Possibly yesterday’s exertion and the higher temperature of the day were to blame, but I have been happy to return to camp and blob out yet again.
We popped into the Cultural Centre to pick up a free guide book, and see more of the displays than we had yesterday when we also called in on our way back from Kata Tjuta and had our lunch. We will further our acquaintance with what’s on offer there tomorrow.
In the meantime, I have checked the temperature; it is up to 39 degrees which is an invitation for a lie down and read, by my reckoning.
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