We woke to overcast skies, having heard rain in the night, all as correctly forecasted. The birds were not concerned about the lack of sunshine, but were out in force as every other morning here. It is a lovely park, with heaps of shade and full of birds. We had no difficulty in deciding to extend our stay here, albeit for just a further three days for now.
Over breakfast I put my ideas for the day to Chris and he surprised me by suggesting that we venture out to the West MacDonnell Ranges despite the likelihood of rain and thunder storms. He is the driver and he has been here before. Many of the attractions here are déjà vu for him, although not so for those of yesterday. And so once more, the eski was packed up and we set off, via the Coles supermarket in town to buy some fruit.
Our first stop was at John Flynn’s Historical Grave, the resting place for the ashes of the mastermind of the Flying Doctor Service, and his wife. The monument or grave is situated on a knoll looking back toward the town. How appropriate when he so obviously was passionate about this great outback of Australia.
The next destination was Simpson’s Gap, just eighteen kilometres from Alice Springs, being one of the most prominent gaps in the Western MacDonnell Ranges. It was Sunday which may have explained the greater number of tourists than yesterday, however I believe that the West MacDonnell Ranges are promoted more than the East as a tourist destination.
Simpson's Gap |
Thirty two kilometres further we turned in to see the Standley Chasm. We had been warned that payment of a fee was required here, this being on aboriginal land. We had also been told that the time to see this was midday when the walls of the chasm apparently blaze a fiery red from the overhead sun’s reflection. We thought about the lack of sun and the need to pay for something we probably would not even see, turned and decided to revisit this when we plan to explore the furthest extent of this area.
As we entered the aboriginal reserves which cover over 50% of the Territory, there were the same signs we had seen as we had travelled south on the Stuart Highway, stating that we were entering a Prescribed Area where there was to be "no Pornography or Liquor". We have not stopped to read the small print on the signs to discover exactly what “pornography” covers. Does it include some episodes of Coronation Street? However we should not worry ourselves about it; I cannot see how this or the liquor ban could affect us.
Hermannsburg is the non-aboriginal name for the Arrente settlement of Ntaria. These days so many of the place names, particularly of National Parks, are changing back to the original aboriginal one, just as so many of the names of New Zealand geographical sites are reverting to their original Maori name. Co-incidentally, just last night, we saw a news report on the television about the poor attendance at the local Ntaria primary school, despite the input by sporting hero mentors, when it does briefly spike.
Hermannsburg is the birth place of Australia’s most famous and successful Aboriginal artist. But first the history of this place:
The remnants of the Lutheran mission at Hermannsburg |
There was a changing of the guard and while one Pastor Albrecht was at the helm, in 1934 he was called upon by an artist by the name of Rex Batterbee who displayed his work at the mission. Local Albert Namatjira was thirty two years old at the time and was fascinated by the artist’s water colours. Pastor Albrecht suggested Albert accompany the artist two years later on a two month trip. During that time Batterbee instructed Albert and he, Albert, took to it like a duck to water. Just two years later, Albert’s first exhibition was arranged and an immediate success. Over the ensuing years, Albert exhibited regularly, his work sold and his fame spread. He died in 1959 but even after all this time, his water colours are much sought after by art dealers.
Chris called in to the Mission site thirty nine years ago, to find it all rather dismal and decrepit. Today we called in to find that great pains have been taken to restore it to its 19th century state. Art works by Albert Namatjira and his family and friends who were also influenced by Batterbee, but not as talented, are on display, along with stories, photos and the history of this place.
But alas, by now the rain was becoming more persistent. Earlier we had eaten our lunch in the confines of the landcruiser and when we alighted at Hermannsburg we had put our caps on to keep any rain off our glasses. By the time we had mooched around the restored whitewashed German style buildings, I was cold, as cold as I have been since flying back from New Zealand.
Travellimg up through the Fink River valley |
Palm Valley |
More views of the road to Palm Valley |
Returning to the beginning of the walk, we found that the driver of the hire vehicle was back. He offered to drop us back to our vehicle which we appreciated greatly. It turned out he had flown into Alice Springs from Sydney for a job interview with the National Parks. We wished him well and kept closely in front of him as we both drove out on the roads much wetter than they had been on entry. While he had confessed minimal experience in driving such roads, he did seem to lack a little confidence, and we do think he was pleased that we could travel convoy style back to the main road. Chris summed up this 21st century experience of this Palm Valley adventure as follows:
In 1972 I travelled this road in a two wheel drive Holden but I am sure that this road is now very different. I doubt that a two wheel drive vehicle would make the journey now; it is demanding enough for a 4WD with a high clearance.
Let this be a warning for anyone travelling in a whizz-bank (camper van with a sliding side door) or an ordinary car.
The colours that so inspired the works of Albert Namatjira |
Again home by about six o’clock, the rain having cleared away and another day of adventure still to be decided.
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